Si monumentum quaeris, circumspice

If you seek monuments in Montevideo, look around Parque Rodo.  This green oasis in the middle of the city is named after Jose Enrique Rodo, one of Uruguay's most influential writers and educators.

Rodo's essay "Ariel" written in 1900, has become a classic treatise for philosophical thinking in Latin America.  Composed in the style of a lecture given by professor Prospero to his students before they venture out into the world,  "Ariel" advocates humanistic rather than materialistic values. Rodo asserts that "The civilization of a country acquires its grandeur, not by its manifestations of material prosperity and predominance, but by the higher order of thinking or of feeling this makes possible."

Ariel is depicted emerging from the stone over the head of Rodo

Monument to Rodo, created by sculptor Jose Belloni in 1947

Rodo's essay also expresses a definite anti-American sentiment.   Although the 29 year-old author had never actually visited the U.S., he condemns North American culture as utilitarian, narrow, insensitive and greedy.  "Titanic in its enormous concentration of human will-power, in its unprecedented triumph in all spheres of material aggrandizement, its civilization yet produces as a whole a singular impression of insufficiency, of emptiness."  He warns against "nordomania" (fascination with North America), denounces the Puritan work ethic, and stresses the importance of developing a distinctly South American identity based on European values, particularly those of England, France and Spain.  The term "arielismo" still used today, refers to a sense of Latin American moral and spiritual superiority, steeped in idealism and marked with disdain for menial work driven by economic incentive.  

La despedidas de Giorgias

The bronze figures portrayed on either side of the monument represent scenes from two other works written by Rodo - Giorgia's Farewell and The Six Pilgrims.

Los seis peregrinos

The other side of the Rodo monument has a reflecting pool

The map of  Parque Rodo lists a total of 28 monuments spread over the landscaped grounds.   Here are some of the highlights among the eclectic mix of people represented.

Confucius, looking out to the river

"Monumento Cosmico" 1939  by Joaquin Torres-Garcia is pink granite engraved with  Pre-Columbian symbols 

Artigas monument, dedicated to "Las Instrucciones de 1813"

Curved wall of the monument serves as temporary shelter 

Albert Einstein (although it's hard to tell)

Neptune

Venus and Cupid

Venus, overlooking her pool

Fountain of the Athletes

William Tell

Parque Rodo has other attractions, including spaces for cultural events, a library, an art gallery, tennis courts, an amusement park, a photo gallery and an open air theatre.  Even Jose Enrique Rodo would approve of this park's contribution to the improvement of mind and body.

Castle which houses a children's library

Patio Andaluz, with tiled benches and central fountain

Carousel

Museo Nacional de Artes Visuales

Evening performance of the Montevideo Philharmonic Orchestra

Outdoor photo exhibition

Market in the park every Sunday

Green space for morning exercises

 "I am convinced that he who has learned to distinguish the delicate from the common, the ugly from the beautiful, has gone half the way to knowing the evil from the good."   - Jose Enrique Rodo


Postscript:
The Latin phrase "Si monumentum quaeris, circumspice" means "If you seek a monument, look around you." This is the inscription on the grave of architect Christopher Wren who is buried in St. Paul's Cathedral, the church which he designed.   It is also the inscription on my great-grandfather's tombstone in Nishatganj (Trans-Gogra) Lucknow, India.  Matthew Ridley was the Superintendent of Government Parks and Gardens in Lucknow from 1875 until his death in 1904.

Tolstoy in Uruguay

November 8th was the 100th anniversary of Leon Tolstoy's death, and in Montevideo, as in many other cities worldwide,  the day was honoured with wreath-laying at a memorial and a special reception at the Russian embassy.  I was fascinated to read in an article in the magazine "Galeria" that the great-grandson of Tolstoy lives here in Uruguay, at a home near Punta del Este.  

Leon Tolstoy (left) and his great-grandson Sasha Tolstoy(right)

Sasha Tolstoy's connection to this country began when he was fifteen years old.  His father Sergio, wanting to curb his son's unruly behaviour, sent him from France to Uruguay in 1953 to live with his mother's sister.  Aunt Wryoubova's household included her husband - the Russian prince Gortchacow - and four daughters.  Sasha attended school in Nueva Helvecia, where in addition to his academic studies, he learned how to milk a cow and make cheese.  Four years later, his father insisted that Sasha return to France to serve in the military.  He fought in the French army during the Algerian war, married, settled in Paris and raised a family there.  

Tolstoy memorial in Montevideo

 Following the death of his wife Marie-France in 2000, Sasha returned to Uruguay and established a fishing supply store in Montevideo.  He had pursued big game fishing as a serious hobby in places such as Africa, Panama, India and Alaska and combined his travel experiences with notes on the intricacies of the sport as the subject of 14 published books.  If you wish to meet the great-grandson of the literary giant, on January 7th, 2011, Sasha Tolstoy will be signing copies of his latest work entitled, "Como pez en el agua" at La Posta del Cangrejo in Punta del Este.

Sasha Tolstoy attended the opening of a special exhibition of family artifacts and previously unpublished photos of Leon at the Russian Embassy in Montevideo.