Classical Music and Mink Coats

It was a cold winter evening in Montevideo and many of the ladies attending the concert at Auditorio Nacional del Sodre sashayed down the aisle wearing full-length mink coats.  The fur and diamond sector of the audience contrasted the casually dressed President Pepe Mujica and his wife Lucia Topolansky  who took their places in the balcony a full 20 minutes late.  The musicians of the Simon Bolivar Symphony Orchestra of Venezuela filed onto the stage, tuned their instruments and waited for the entrance of Gustavo Dudamel, the celebrated young conductor listed by Time Magazine in 2009 as one of the most influential talents in the arts.

Gustavo Dudamel

Two things about the Venezuelan orchestra stood out, even before they played the first notes of Ravel's Daphne and Chloe: the size of the orchestra, and the fact that the players are all young.  This group is composed of a sea of violins and violas, a regiment of cellos, a battalion of brass, a league of woodwinds, a team of percussionists, a pair of harpists, and a mass of double bassists.

 Their sound is exceptionally rich, sensitive and dynamic.  The orchestra plays with gusto and obvious joy.

Dudamel's style of conducting is surprisingly understated, maintaining full control of the orchestra without flailing, bouncing, or dramatic head-shaking, and without looking at a score.  One has the feeling that a slight inclination of  his baby finger is enough to command the tempo and volume of an entire section.  He is also reluctant to hog the limelight when applause thunders through the auditorium.   Instead of bowing from the podium, Dudamel stands in the midst of the orchestra, shoulder-to-shoulder with the hard-working musicians, a gesture which says " I am but a cog in this creative machine."

Dudamel is only 30 years old and in addition to conducting the Simon Bolivar Symphony Orchestra,  is  Musical Director of the Los Angeles Philharmonic, the Gothenburg Symphony and Orchestre Philharmonique de Radio France.   He started his career in Barquisimeto, under the direction of Jose Antonio Abreu, founder of the Orquesta Juvenil Simon Bolivar in Venezuela.  Abreu established "El Sistema"  an educational program which uses classical music training as an engine for intellectual and social improvement.   Many of the current professional orchestra members are graduates of the system, which has effectively lifted them from situations of poverty.   "El Sistema" is being used as a model for developing music programs in many countries around the world, including Canada.

The enthusiastic response of the audience prompted two encore pieces.  The grand finale was a lively samba composition and the orchestra members couldn't resist moving to the rhythm.  The cellists twirled their instruments, the horns stood up and swayed, the drummers danced and yelled  "Bravo!" in unison.   It was the perfect whimsical end to a resounding, memorable musical performance.

Footnote:  President Mujica and his wife left the auditorium at the interval.  They missed the best part of the performance.

Behind the scenes

Teatro Solis

Foyer lined with Italian marble columns

Teatro Solis sits like a19th century grande dame in fancy dress, overseeing the corner of Buenos Aires and Bartolome Mitre streets.  She's a friend, a charming companion who played an influential role in the history of Montevideo and in our personal decision to move here. It was Solis who introduced us to the Montevideo Philharmonic, violinist Hilary Hahn, conductor Zubin Mehta, Brazilian composer Pixinguinha and the Chicago Symphony Youth Orchestra.  An evening spent with Solis has always been a rewarding experience filled with rich sound, dazzling colour, and the excitement of discovering a range of new artists and unique modes of expression.

We took the guided tour of Teatro Solis this week and got to know her better with a glimpse behind the scenes, an aerial view from the third balcony and a thorough account of the history beneath the building's impressive surface.

Teatro Solis was conceived in 1840 by a group of Montevideo shareholders who wished to build a fine opera house for the city, while incorporating adjacent commercial and residential spaces to generate revenue.  Their ambitious entrepreneurial project was constructed between 1842 and 1856 using the very best materials imported from Europe.  The grand opening of Teatro Solis took place on August 25, 1856 with a performance of the opera "Ernani" by Verdi.

Stage in the Sala Principal

Our tour guide Ignacio pointed out the original features of the building's interior that add Old World elegance to its fabric - the Empire style Baccarat crystal chandeliers assembled at the Osler factory in Birmingham England, the Carrara marble columns shipped from Italy, the gold leaf decoration of the upper foyer, and the ceiling painting in the main concert hall, bearing the names of 11 famous writers and composers.  These historic elements were preserved and restored while extensive renovation of the building's structure took place between 1998 and 2004.  The theatre's stage was improved to accommodate the needs of contemporary productions and the hall was upgraded to meet modern acoustic and safety standards.

The theatre has four balconies above the main floor, with a capacity of 1500 seats.  Today it is a government-owned facility operating with private and public funding.  Ticket prices are always reasonable, with the best concert seats offered for 100-160 U pesos ($5.00 - $8.00 U.S.).

Balcony seats

At the top of Teatro Solis' roof, there's a red lantern that dates from the mid-1800s, a time when the skyline of Montevideo was not populated with tall buildings.  On evenings when performances were held, the light was turned on to announce the fact to the citizens.  The tradition continues, and the sight of the illuminated red lantern still invokes the expectation of attending an outstanding, thrilling performance.  We've been visiting Teatro Solis regularly for the past two years and haven't been disappointed yet.  To launch your own virtual tour of Teatro Solis click here.

Champagne is served on the terrace of the theatre